I recently completed reading a couple of books and decided to post my thoughts on each.
The first is Thomas Pinney's A History of Wine In America - From Prohibition to the Present. This is a massive (532 page) scholarly (136 pages are footnotes and source citations) work, and is directed at those whose interest goes well beyond the simple enjoyment of wine itself. Pinney presents a high level view (as in, you're in the International Space Station and equipped with a 60 power telescope) of the American wine industry from the onset of Prohibition up to 2005 (the book's publication date). It's pages are replete with statistics, details of legislation and enforcement, descriptions of industry association efforts, corporate activities, and marketing trends, and those hoping for information about the early histories of their favorite California, Oregon and Washington wineries will be sorely disappointed. Illustrative of this is that because, prior to 1965, the majority of wine produced in the USA was inexpensive sweet wine, the existence of a handful of wineries making quality table wine is mentioned only in casual passing.
So it's not a book for the neophyte wine lover, or even for people who consider themselves knowledgeable on the subject but whose interests lie in the production, procurement and enjoyment of contemporary wines. Instead, this is a book for those oenophiles who have an independent love of history, and is thus able to satisfy both passions. I'm in that category, and am hoping to read Pinney's previous work, A History of Wine In America - From the Beginnings to Prohibition (pub 1989) (rumor has it that there's a copy under the Christmas tree). In fact, my only criticism of the book is that it devotes too much space (two chapters) to contemporary wine production efforts in states east of the Rockies (where the winters are too cold or the summers too wet to grow Vitis vinifera, the only species that can produce truly excellent wine), and not enough to Washington and Oregon (13 and 10 pages respectively). I'm sure this is due to an effort to be as encompassing and comprehensive as possible, but it just seems wrong to devote page space to wine production in Iowa at the expense of a proper treatment of a region (the Willamette Valley) that is producing Pinot Noir that's the peer of anything coming out of Burgundy. I don't think that this is a case of bias on my part; I suspect anyone who loves good wine would feel the same way...even if they live in Iowa.
In an entirely different genre is Natalie MacLean's red, white and drunk all over (2006). This book is written in a humorous, self-effacing style, and keeps the wine geek jargon to a minimum. It's easy and fun to read, not the least bit intimidating, and a good choice for someone just getting into wine. Those with more extensive knowledge will also find interesting content, such as Ms. MacLean's visits and interviews with winemakers (both Old World and New), critics, and other industry professionals. While reading her account of her evolution from neophyte to expert, I frequently found myself reminiscing about my own journey along that same path, and I expect others who've been into wine for a while will have a similar experience.
Toward the end of the book Ms. MacLean puts in a plug for her web site, www.nataliemaclean.com. At that time it was free, but nowadays it's $25 per year to get "full" access. I decided to signup for it, mostly to see how it compared in value to Robert Parker's site (www.erobertparker.com, $100 per year). As it turns out, for one quarter the cost, MacLean's site offers considerably less than one quarter the content, but I suppose it's a good alternative for those who aren't quite ready to pony up the cash for the Parker site. One thing that limits the usefulness of MacLean's site is that she lives in Canada (Toronto I believe) and the selection and prices in the state stores (operated by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario) vary from those here in the USA, particularly for those of us on the west coast.
Nonetheless I highly recommend the book, particularly for beginners. It's educational without being snooty, and lacks the stigma associated with Wine for Dummies or The Idiot's Guide to Wine. It being now five years after publication, you can get it for only $9.58 from Amazon, and at that price it's a bargain.
Friday, December 16, 2011
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Wineopolis
Arriving in Corvallis at the beginning of 2007, my first priority was to find a place to live. I found a decent rental house and had myself moved in by midday Saturday January 6th, and went out to buy a good Oregon Pinot Noir to celebrate. My first stop was Avalon, but the less-than-friendly reception I got from the (now departed) salesperson led me back out the door in search of an alternative. Two blocks away, at the Water Street Market building on the NW corner of Monroe and 1st, I discovered Wineopolis.
I found the proprietor, Jerry Larson, to be both friendly and knowledgeable, and I purchased two bottles of 2004 Pinot Noir, each from a local winery. Since then I've been a frequent customer.
Jerry has been active in the Corvallis culinary scene for a long time. He operated the Tower of London restaurant from 1980-1985 (the site is now the McMenamins at Harrison and 3rd), and put together the wine program for the First Alternative coop in 1989-90. He opened Wineopolis in June of 2005.
The store favors wines from producers (both domestic and foreign) that can be characterized as "agricultural" rather than "industrial". These are small-to-medium sized wineries whose products convey a sense of place (roughly equivalent to the French term terroir), rather than trying to conform to a modern style proselytized by contemporary critics such as Robert Parker (who favors wines that are highly extracted, high in alcohol, and low in acid; these can be great by themselves but often do not pair well with food).
Although there are a few wines in the $50-60 range (typically vineyard-designated Oregon Pinot Noir), most wines in the store are priced between $10 and $20. Jerry has tasted every one of them and can vouch for them all, the result of good relationships with local winery owners, distributors and Portland-based direct importers. Every Saturday a white and a red are available for tasting; these are usually in the $10-12 range.
Jerry believes in educated consumers, and will give you a good bit of information about any bottle you're considering. Most people appreciate this, but there are exceptions. I've met a one-time-only customer who complained that he was simply not interested in all the details, and just wanted a good recommendation. His view was that "it's the salesman's job to be the expert, and all I want is to rely on his expertise." There is nothing wrong with this perspective, and I suggest to Jerry that he should consider it a compliment when encountering a customer who wants his recommendation but not all the supporting data.
Jerry is also very good at recommending food and wine pairings. I know from personal experience that he's an excellent cook, and have come to rely on his advice when looking for wines to match a menu.
The store currently carries about 500 different wines, mostly from Oregon, Italy, France, California and Washington, with a small number from Spain and Portugal. Jerry has phased out Australian offerings; "No one seems to have noticed or cared." Over the next month, preparing for the holidays, he'll be increasing the selection and inventory.
There may be greater selections at some places in town (e.g., Market of Choice), but you won't get the personal attention you'll get at Wineopolis. There is no substitute for that, and your chances of getting a good wine are a lot better.
I found the proprietor, Jerry Larson, to be both friendly and knowledgeable, and I purchased two bottles of 2004 Pinot Noir, each from a local winery. Since then I've been a frequent customer.
Jerry has been active in the Corvallis culinary scene for a long time. He operated the Tower of London restaurant from 1980-1985 (the site is now the McMenamins at Harrison and 3rd), and put together the wine program for the First Alternative coop in 1989-90. He opened Wineopolis in June of 2005.
The store favors wines from producers (both domestic and foreign) that can be characterized as "agricultural" rather than "industrial". These are small-to-medium sized wineries whose products convey a sense of place (roughly equivalent to the French term terroir), rather than trying to conform to a modern style proselytized by contemporary critics such as Robert Parker (who favors wines that are highly extracted, high in alcohol, and low in acid; these can be great by themselves but often do not pair well with food).
Although there are a few wines in the $50-60 range (typically vineyard-designated Oregon Pinot Noir), most wines in the store are priced between $10 and $20. Jerry has tasted every one of them and can vouch for them all, the result of good relationships with local winery owners, distributors and Portland-based direct importers. Every Saturday a white and a red are available for tasting; these are usually in the $10-12 range.
Jerry believes in educated consumers, and will give you a good bit of information about any bottle you're considering. Most people appreciate this, but there are exceptions. I've met a one-time-only customer who complained that he was simply not interested in all the details, and just wanted a good recommendation. His view was that "it's the salesman's job to be the expert, and all I want is to rely on his expertise." There is nothing wrong with this perspective, and I suggest to Jerry that he should consider it a compliment when encountering a customer who wants his recommendation but not all the supporting data.
Jerry is also very good at recommending food and wine pairings. I know from personal experience that he's an excellent cook, and have come to rely on his advice when looking for wines to match a menu.
The store currently carries about 500 different wines, mostly from Oregon, Italy, France, California and Washington, with a small number from Spain and Portugal. Jerry has phased out Australian offerings; "No one seems to have noticed or cared." Over the next month, preparing for the holidays, he'll be increasing the selection and inventory.
There may be greater selections at some places in town (e.g., Market of Choice), but you won't get the personal attention you'll get at Wineopolis. There is no substitute for that, and your chances of getting a good wine are a lot better.
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Hard Times Distillery - Update
Some of you may recollect that one of my first posts was about Hard Times Distillery in Monroe. Since the time I posted that article it's been a rough road for the owners, Dudley Clark and James Stegall. Difficulties with funding, with getting parts for their custom stills, and other obstacles kept them from attaining production status until last autumn.
As I originally reported, it had been their plan to make vodka from rye. Insufficient funds prevented the acquisition of some equipment needed for that, so they fell back on a simpler solution: sugar. They describe their product as being based on "an old moonshine recipe" a statement which is, in fact, completely accurate.
There's a lot of confusion about the term "moonshine". There are a number of small distilleries around the US that are selling unaged whiskey as "moonshine". These are corn whiskies, or ones that use a bourbon mashbill of corn with rye and barley malt. These are not really moonshine for two reasons. The first is that "moonshine", strictly defined, is any illegally produced spirit. So if they produced it legally, it's not moonshine.
The second reason is that most modern moonshine is not produced from grain but from sugar. Why? Because the easiest and cheapest way to make alcohol is with sugar, warm water and yeast, and if your goal is to make money, this is what you do. The extra bother of converting starch to sugar is viewed as an unnecessary expense by most moonshiners. Some will add a measure of converted hog chow (85% corn meal and 15% ground soybeans) to impart some "corn whiskey" character, but the soybeans add a rather funky element to that. While still living in Florida, I sampled some sugar/hog chow moonshine and it was, frankly, pretty wretched stuff.
Most moonshine is produced in simple pot stills, which are capable of producing spirit no stronger than about 80% alcohol by volume (ABV). That which is made from sugar is known as "sugar jack" and it smells and tastes more like rum than anything else.
Hard Times Distillery is equipped with a column still and their "Sugar Momma" vodka is, like all vodka, distilled at 95% ABV. At this level of distillation it's usually the case that very little of the aroma and taste of the original fermented product survives the process. For example, although I'm pretty attuned to the aroma of rye (being a fan of rye whiskey), I can just barely smell the rye in Sobieski vodka.
So when I finally sampled some "Sugar Momma" I wasn't expecting much in the way of aroma or flavor. Man, was I in for a surprise. The stuff exudes a distinct bouquet of brown sugar, similar to a lot of rums. Although it lacks the additional exotic aromas of finer rums, it also lacks the medicinal alcohol character of the not-so-fine ones. On the palate it's extraordinarily smooth, and has a richness uncharacteristic of vodka. Seriously, if you're a rum fan, this is your vodka. When the weather warms up a bit more, I'm going to try this in a Mojito.
Sold only in Oregon, for $14.95, it's already developed a following in Eugene and Corvallis. Dudley tells me that they "can't keep it on the shelves." Indeed, when I recently visited Big Y Liquors in Eugene I noticed it was sold out.
Hard Times is working to increase production, and if it continues to do well, the profits can be plowed back in to the business and we will, hopefully, see rye whiskey being produced before the end of the year.
"Sugar Momma" is sold here in Corvallis at the liquor store on Washington Avenue, and served at Block 15.
As I originally reported, it had been their plan to make vodka from rye. Insufficient funds prevented the acquisition of some equipment needed for that, so they fell back on a simpler solution: sugar. They describe their product as being based on "an old moonshine recipe" a statement which is, in fact, completely accurate.
There's a lot of confusion about the term "moonshine". There are a number of small distilleries around the US that are selling unaged whiskey as "moonshine". These are corn whiskies, or ones that use a bourbon mashbill of corn with rye and barley malt. These are not really moonshine for two reasons. The first is that "moonshine", strictly defined, is any illegally produced spirit. So if they produced it legally, it's not moonshine.
The second reason is that most modern moonshine is not produced from grain but from sugar. Why? Because the easiest and cheapest way to make alcohol is with sugar, warm water and yeast, and if your goal is to make money, this is what you do. The extra bother of converting starch to sugar is viewed as an unnecessary expense by most moonshiners. Some will add a measure of converted hog chow (85% corn meal and 15% ground soybeans) to impart some "corn whiskey" character, but the soybeans add a rather funky element to that. While still living in Florida, I sampled some sugar/hog chow moonshine and it was, frankly, pretty wretched stuff.
Most moonshine is produced in simple pot stills, which are capable of producing spirit no stronger than about 80% alcohol by volume (ABV). That which is made from sugar is known as "sugar jack" and it smells and tastes more like rum than anything else.
Hard Times Distillery is equipped with a column still and their "Sugar Momma" vodka is, like all vodka, distilled at 95% ABV. At this level of distillation it's usually the case that very little of the aroma and taste of the original fermented product survives the process. For example, although I'm pretty attuned to the aroma of rye (being a fan of rye whiskey), I can just barely smell the rye in Sobieski vodka.
So when I finally sampled some "Sugar Momma" I wasn't expecting much in the way of aroma or flavor. Man, was I in for a surprise. The stuff exudes a distinct bouquet of brown sugar, similar to a lot of rums. Although it lacks the additional exotic aromas of finer rums, it also lacks the medicinal alcohol character of the not-so-fine ones. On the palate it's extraordinarily smooth, and has a richness uncharacteristic of vodka. Seriously, if you're a rum fan, this is your vodka. When the weather warms up a bit more, I'm going to try this in a Mojito.
Sold only in Oregon, for $14.95, it's already developed a following in Eugene and Corvallis. Dudley tells me that they "can't keep it on the shelves." Indeed, when I recently visited Big Y Liquors in Eugene I noticed it was sold out.
Hard Times is working to increase production, and if it continues to do well, the profits can be plowed back in to the business and we will, hopefully, see rye whiskey being produced before the end of the year.
"Sugar Momma" is sold here in Corvallis at the liquor store on Washington Avenue, and served at Block 15.
Friday, October 1, 2010
Easy to Find Fine Wine
If you're looking for really good wine, there's no substitute for visiting one of Corvallis' specialty wine stores. There you will get the benefit of the staff's expertise, who can find you the right wine at the right price.
Nonetheless, I've been repeatedly asked for recommendations for wines that can be found at local grocery stores, such as Safeway and Fred Meyer. In fact, just a few weeks ago I took a call from a friend who was in the wine section of the Philomath Boulevard Safeway. She was buying the ingredients for a dinner party and wanted a recommendation for a Cabernet or Merlot. I suggested going to a wine store, but she replied, "I don't have time. I have to finish getting groceries here and head home to start preparing. Can you recommend anything that I might find here?"
I suggested the Louis Martini Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. She checked the shelf and replied, "They have the 2007. Is that okay?". I replied that it was. She later informed me that she and her guests had been pleased with the selection.
Recognizing that many of you likely will find yourself in a similar situation, I've decided to provide a list of wines you can find at most grocery stores. None of these are great wines, typically getting scores in the 88 - 91 range from publications like The Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate. If you want something better, then you'll just have to bite the bullet and go to a specialty wine store.
Another thing about these is that they are pretty consistent from year to year, so I won't include recommended vintages. These wines are made by high production wineries, which can draw on a lot of vineyards for grapes. Those in California and Washington can even use up to 25% grapes from a year other than the listed vintage, or outside the designated area. This gives them a lot of flexibility and allows them to maintain a fairly constant flavor profile (for example, the Ste. Michelle "Eroica" Riesling has gotten exactly the same score - 91 - from The Wine Advocate for the last four vintages).
Whites
Kendall Jackson "Vinter's Reserve" Chardonnay - $11-12
Kendall Jackson "Grand Reserve" Chardonnay - $17-18
King Estate Pinot Gris - $14-15
Ponzi Pinot Gris - $15-16
Gallo Family Vineyards Pinot Gris - $9-10
Chateau Ste Michelle "Eroica" Riesling - $20-22
Reds
Benton Lane Pinot Noir - $21-22
Argyle Pinot Noir - $22-26
Ponzi Pinot Noir - $33-35
Argyle Reserve Pinot Noir - $35-37
Chateau Ste Michelle Canoe Ridge Vyd Merlot - $19-20
Kendall Jackson "Grand Reserve" Merlot - $24-25
Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County - $12-14
Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - $23-24
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - $24-25
Sparkling
Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - $17-18
Argyle Brut - $24-25
Finally, if you happen to be at Costco, look for wines from a Chilean winery, Montes Alpha. Their Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are all both good and moderately priced.
Nonetheless, I've been repeatedly asked for recommendations for wines that can be found at local grocery stores, such as Safeway and Fred Meyer. In fact, just a few weeks ago I took a call from a friend who was in the wine section of the Philomath Boulevard Safeway. She was buying the ingredients for a dinner party and wanted a recommendation for a Cabernet or Merlot. I suggested going to a wine store, but she replied, "I don't have time. I have to finish getting groceries here and head home to start preparing. Can you recommend anything that I might find here?"
I suggested the Louis Martini Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. She checked the shelf and replied, "They have the 2007. Is that okay?". I replied that it was. She later informed me that she and her guests had been pleased with the selection.
Recognizing that many of you likely will find yourself in a similar situation, I've decided to provide a list of wines you can find at most grocery stores. None of these are great wines, typically getting scores in the 88 - 91 range from publications like The Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate. If you want something better, then you'll just have to bite the bullet and go to a specialty wine store.
Another thing about these is that they are pretty consistent from year to year, so I won't include recommended vintages. These wines are made by high production wineries, which can draw on a lot of vineyards for grapes. Those in California and Washington can even use up to 25% grapes from a year other than the listed vintage, or outside the designated area. This gives them a lot of flexibility and allows them to maintain a fairly constant flavor profile (for example, the Ste. Michelle "Eroica" Riesling has gotten exactly the same score - 91 - from The Wine Advocate for the last four vintages).
Whites
Kendall Jackson "Vinter's Reserve" Chardonnay - $11-12
Kendall Jackson "Grand Reserve" Chardonnay - $17-18
King Estate Pinot Gris - $14-15
Ponzi Pinot Gris - $15-16
Gallo Family Vineyards Pinot Gris - $9-10
Chateau Ste Michelle "Eroica" Riesling - $20-22
Reds
Benton Lane Pinot Noir - $21-22
Argyle Pinot Noir - $22-26
Ponzi Pinot Noir - $33-35
Argyle Reserve Pinot Noir - $35-37
Chateau Ste Michelle Canoe Ridge Vyd Merlot - $19-20
Kendall Jackson "Grand Reserve" Merlot - $24-25
Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County - $12-14
Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - $23-24
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - $24-25
Sparkling
Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - $17-18
Argyle Brut - $24-25
Finally, if you happen to be at Costco, look for wines from a Chilean winery, Montes Alpha. Their Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are all both good and moderately priced.
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